I have a Kenmore Elite HE4 Smartwash quiet pak 9 that keeps showing the F11 error code. My clothes are now - Answered by a verified Appliance Technician.

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The washer displayed the SUD error message, so I left it alone and eventually the message went away and was replaced with error code F02. After research, I found that this error code is due to not draining. I have done all the suggested things to make sure that drain is not plugged up or kinked etc. I cannot find any 'clean out' on my model washer. The drum spins freely if I turn it by hand. Is there anything else I can try to get the washer running again? Do I have to get a service technician to come out and look at it?

I have a similar issue and have cleaned the drain pump/filter that was full of stuff and disgusting. Didn't fix the problem. I still get the F02 and SUDS error. I unclamped the black rubber drain hose and checked that whole area under the drum to see if there was a sock or something and looked with a light all around to see from inside looking down the holes. Plugged everything back in hooked all the hoses back up, ran a empty rinse/spin cycle. Worked and drained perfectly.

I did a test mode. Test mode was perfect. Out 2 towels in and did a quick wash to see what would happen.SAME ERROR!!! What the heck? It will work and drain quickly and spin and all when nothing is in it, but put anything items at all in there and it will not work. What do I do now??

It doesn't make sense and is driving me crazy. I have soaking wet, stinking towels all over the place now that I can't clean:((( PLEASE HELP. My He3 is at least 10 years old. F2 drain error: I saw a video on you tube about how to clean the coin trap after removing the T20 screws at bottom of bottom panel.

With F2 you have to drain some water, and might be best to do this by removing the screw at base of coin trap, before you unscrew the coin trap coverthat way you can lift the whole assembly a couple inches up for easier draining. I removed the cover and cleaned the trap-odds and ends, not clogged. Put all back and still get F2 with 10min left. Next: bench test the pump, if you don't know how, order new--pump noisy. Being an OEM guy, i called Sears parts to order the original replacement parts, highly recommended!

Installation of the new unit took 20 minutes of floor time, and the really well-built machine now works perfectly and sounds a whole lot better, which means, to me and my partner, that the pump was on its way out for quite some time. To all of you that have cleaned out your trap, checked the pump motor and it works just fine. I have a possible solution to your problem.

There is a pressure sensing device mounted just under the top lid of the washer. If you follow the small black tube from it down to the back of the wash drum, it will connect to a small white plastic tray. This tray is used to detect if the water has drained from the bottom of the unit. My tray was filled with the same gray matter it typically find in my coin tray. So much so that I had to shake it violently to get all the gunk out.

If it is plugged the washer thinks there is still water in the drum and shuts down on an F02 error code thinking that it is taking too long for the drum to drain. I hope that helps those that were stuck. F/02 error code potential causes Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running.

Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects If the above does not correct the problem replace the pump I would start by taking the lower front panel off. There are two bolts, one on each side of the panel, remove those. Once you have the panel removed, you will see a white plastic unit, that is your pump assembly. You should also see a round plug with a plastic tab across the front.

That is your coin trap. Open the cap by twisting it counterclockwise and remove it. It may just be clogged. You can download the service manual from and there is further information. I just had the same problem. I did all the above including cleaning out the coin trap, the only thing I found was a small plastic thing about the size of a multi-vitamin and some gunk buildup on the sides, which i cleaned out, put everything back together and it seems to be working fine now. Doesn't seem like that small thing would have caused all that problem, but at least it's working fine now.

Thank you for your guidance. Sure wish there was a way to deal with the water that came out of the trap, I used a very shallow tray to slide under the washer to catch most of it, had to mop up the rest - oh well, floor is clean now:). This site (and the people who contribute) are lifesavers. Using the guidance above, I removed the lower panel (mine had three bolts) and coin trap cover (be prepared for water) and found a small amount of the expected debris in the coin trap. Not enough, I thought, to block the flow.

Poking around, I felt something soft in the short pipe between the coin trap canister and the pump, which turnd out to be one of my wife's trouser stockings. Bottom line, the coin trap isn't a very good guard filter for the pump. To be fair to Kenmore, this unit has been in routine use for more than nine years, and this is the first problem. Kudos to the original poster! I have been noticing that the wash cycle was taking an incredible amount of time to complete recently. Finally it started throwing the F02 codes at me at 11 pm. Drum full of water - error codes - have to be up for work at 5.

So I did what any self respecting IT Geek would do and hit Google up for the magic answer. 2 bolts and the front came right off. A little elbow grease and I was able to break the trap free. Simply by twisting it a little bit gave enough room for the water to drain. Once the drain/spin cycle completed, I dared to remove the trap completely. It was easy to see why the poor thing wasn't working very well - I pulled out a BUNCH of lint, pet hair, coins, and other unidentifiable remnants.

I would have paid a metric chit ton of cash to have a repairman come out to look at it and basically perform 'maintenance' for me. Now I can guarantee that trap will never be clogged again.

Thanks again for the instructions! Saved my bacon! Thanks to OldTurkey03 and all who added to this post. I had the F02 error on my Kenmore Elite HE3 and the tub wouldn't drain entirely. Your instructions for cleaning the drain pump filter solved the problem! First, I unplugged the washer and used my wet/dry vac to get water out of the tub.

I used an 'EZ Mover Furniture Lifter' to tilt the washer and put two pieces of wood under the sides near the front. (Female, in my 60's, so not super-strong.) Per your instructions, I found and removed the three screws holding the bottom front panel on - mine needed a 7/64' Allen wrench. When I opened the plug, stagnant water in the drain line went everywhere. One towel wasn't enough! But inside the filter were three Color Catcher sheets, two dimes, three pennies and a tiny screw.

I removed the filter, cleaned it well with an old nail brush to get all the gunk off, checked there was nothing stuck in the line itself, put all back together, and the washer is working fine! Thanks again to all who posted!

I just started to get this code recently and when I first called for Sears Service they said it would be $150 service call plus parts (and tax). I'll bet they would try to get me for a new pump but after reading this fixit it was exact. I had a ton of lint and dog hair in the trap (I think the first time it was cleaned in 5 years). Once it was cleaned, worked like a champ. If you try to clean with wet clothes and water in the drum be prepared to plug the filter opening or your floor will be very wet.

I had the same error code and followed your directions regarding the removal of the coin trap. I placed a baking sheet under my washer and unscrewed it just a little to control the amount of water running out.

Make sure you have some towels handy to wipe up any spills. Once the water was removed, I completely removed the coin trap.

There was all kinds of crud build up, 5 coins, chap stick cover, hair clip, etc. I was amazed. Anyway, cleaned it all up and put it back together and it works like a charm. Thanks for the helpful insight! Th information provided in the answer by OldTurkey was right on. I did as he suggested and was amazed at the things found in the trap.

What is sad is that we had purchased a new washer and dryer that same day because the washer was working so poorly-- even telling the saleslady of how our washer was acting she did not mention a trap-- until I saw the access door on the newer models and she told me it was for the drain trap. Made me look up the error code and found the above answer. Ours was clogged very full, and had skunky water that made the whole washer smell bad. It is working great now.

Thanks sooo much for this help. My washer showed the F 02 error code starting a couple of days ago. I was just resetting my machine to get it through the load.

It took forever. Found this, opened the trap. It's a wonder the machine was working at all. I found a rusted bottle cap(the rust completely cover one hole), 2 nickels. A couple of sticks(toothpicks?), a triangle of fabric(whatever that came from!), and just a whole bunch of lint.

Haven't tried another load yet, but it better work better! Thank you so much!

OldTurkey was exactly right. I think I superclogged the filter by washing an old cotton bedspread that deteriorated too much and started falling apart into clumps of fiber. When we bought this washer in 2005, we went with the Sears 5-yr maintenance.

NOT ONCE did the Sears repair person that came for regular maintenance look at or even mention this filter. What a simple fix to a big problem. Everything is working great (I am currently washing the towel that got wet during the fix).

I will make certain we check this on a regular basis. Thank you again! Thank you so much Mr. Old Turkey03. You may call yourself an Old Turkey, but you're a lifesaver to me. I am a 65 year old single female who by following Old Turkey's directions was able to fix my washer on my own!

If there are any other not so helpless grand dames out there, just read his instructions, download the service manual and watch a YouTube video of how it's done. The hex screws caused me a bit of a quandry until I figured out I had an adaptor and used it. I also use a rimmed cookie sheet to catch the extra water after I threw a mop head inside the drum to soak up all the seen water. There is still a lot of extra water that comes out when you open the drain plug but it mopped up fine. Before putting everything back together I ran a short cycle with bleach and cleaned out the drain again. It HAD TONS OF GOOK ALL THROUGH IT.

Thanks again, mtk. Did the accepted answer although i would call it a cap not a plug as it was about 3 inches in diameter but right behind the lower cover to the the left of the drain pump my cover had 3 screws no big deal in the cap!@#'y was a mass of crud black crap dog hair it stunk there were other pieces of crud and even a small kids sock dont know how that would even get in the drain line but alas all is well and i am just running a few clothless cycles to flush the system once again the power of the net and the networkers which is the people using it found a workable solution thanks to all. To all of you that have cleaned out your trap, checked the pump motor and it works just fine. I have a possible solution to your problem. There is a pressure sensing device mounted just under the top lid of the washer. If you follow the small black tube from it down to the back of the wash drum, it will connect to a small white plastic tray.

This tray is used to detect if the water has drained from the bottom of the unit. My tray was filled with the same gray matter it typically find in my coin tray. So much so that I had to shake it violently to get all the gunk out. If it is plugged the washer thinks there is still water in the drum and shuts down on an F02 error code thinking that it is taking too long for the drum to drain.

I hope that helps those that were stuck. Old Turkey, there are three screws on the front panel on most models. If replacing the pump doesn't fix it, remove top, there are three screws in back. Slide top backward and it will come off.

Inside right top is water level switch, may have blocked tube, remove tube from it and clear by blowing down tube. Do not pull tube off at bottom, only off switch.

If still a problem you will have to replace the water level switch too. RE: the above water problem, I used a shop vac and just turned the drum trap little by little and sucked the water up as it came out. No wet floor, maybe mine is still dirty? These washers do not do a very good job of getting clothes clean, not enough agitation except for the operator/owner. I got one for free so I didn't get taken too badly but still had to change out pump after a few years. It is working now, we will see how long that lasts. OK, I see many repeats of the same good advice and a few jerks telling those of us who either want or have to do the work ourselves to call a tech.

Next time I find the place that the tech will work for free I will call them, for right now THAT is my budget. To sum up and add (I am posting for I do NOT see mention anywhere of point #6 that I add in) to all the above, and if you have a problem, I hope you make it this far: 1) Unplug the machine 2) If it was not able to drain after at least 4 or 5 attempts, get those soggy clothes out of there and try to bail out all you can. 2.5) IF you can tilt the machine back, do so, but not so far that it closes in on wanting to fall back - if the front starts to slip forward, you could be in for a real unpleasant time. 3) Remove the kick panel - normally three screws unless you lost one like I have.

4) With many towels at hand, unscrew that strainer. Clean out anything there. Check the port inside the cavity and to the right (towards the motor). This is the direction of the waterflow. See that there are no obstructions in there. Should just be the motor's impeller. 4a) If you found junk in the trap, you may have solved your problem.

Next if not- 5) When the unit runs, do you hear the drain pump run? That is the motor connected to the right of the trap you just examined. If not (at all) or if it sounds like a garbage disposal with a few coins in it, we might have a problem with electricity not getting to it (doubtful) or it has gone bad - Note if you smell something almost burning when it runs, and furthermore, if it was just running, this baby will be hot! Yes, you can pay nearly $200 for one of these if you really try, but you should be able to find a good replacement on Amazon or eBay for under $90, including shipping (I paid $65.00). ALL you want is the motor/impeller assembly - you so very most likely do not need the plastic trap and all unless you have a problem with giant rats that like to eat that plastic - my point being: I can't imagine in normal circumstances how you would ever need that plastic assembly replaced. The motor is attached to the assembly by three easy-to-remove screws.

6) Before shelling out your hard earned cash on the motor, IF you have had the unit for a while (mine is 12 years old) you easily could have junk built up around the ball valve, which is located at the base of the tub in the accordion hose that comes off the left back of the strainer assembly if you are facing the front of it. Mine is black and goes from the back of the strainer right up to the underside of the tub. You will have to remove both clamps - one on the back of the strainer and one around the fitting of it around the base underside of the tub. If they were not cheap spring clamps, it would be very easy, but with a little fighting with a pair of pliers, you can get it done (easier off than on.). I found a couple children's socks and a whole load of gray-black slime in mine!!!

Also, up in the inside cavity of where the black accordion boot attaches to the underside of the tub, is the channel water goes through which should be inspected (by feel) for any more gunk. I had to post because in my reading I never found any mention of this rubber boot - ball-valve assembly, but as mine was logically the next place to check, and indeed, horribly plugged with junk from over the years, I had to add my 2 cent's worth here for all the other folk herein have helped me out tremendously.

One additional observation - After finding that my motor did in fact work, though was not running, the two other possibilities I could think of were 1) Wiring, and 2) The main control (computer) board that with the top of the machine removed and looking down at everything is normally center-back. A service that offers to do diagnostics on these highly recommended that I send mine in to them for testing for they said that they never heard of the main board being the problem with a no-rum drain pump. Now, I was on my SECOND main board for I had just received a used replacement. Since I tested the wiring and it was all connected, I chose to try another board anyway.

There is a nice place that sells refurbished GUARANTEED boards for about $85 out there (New, these buggers run a good $225 or so). Replacing the board solved the problem.

Hmmmm, they, who test these boards day in and day out never heard this happening, but it happened to me on two boards in a row, what are the odds. The following is what fixed my washer. Clean the drain filter, check all hoses for blockage.

Including the main hose at bottom where the pump is hooked. Basically clean the whole assembly.

Result: got me to the wash cycle but still sud and then f02 when it's time to rinse. Double check if the drain pump is working and verified at the beginning of the cycle that it is efficiently draining water by looking at the outlet.

Based of my researh it seems like the sud will show up if it thinks that there are more suds. You can tell this when you hear the drain pump run for about 5 minutes even though there are no more water. After this it will throw the f02 and will not continue to the rinse and spin cycle. I read somewhere about the switch sensor could cause this if there is blockage. Switch sensor is located at the top right corner inside the washer.

You will have to remove the top cover as well as the back cover to do this. (quite easy just screws). It has a little black drain hose. I disconnected this hose and follow where it is connected and viola there is a little canister attachment and it is full of gunk. There is only one screw holding it. Take it out and clean the gunk. Make sure the tubing are free of bubbles too by blowing air on it.

Including where it attaches to the sensor. Make sure you have a pan when you take out that canister as there will be water there. After doing this my washer worked like a charm! The key is to do all the steps to save you from buying anything else until you are absolutely sure which part is the problem.

I know the sensor switch is working because it switches with other steps except when it detects the sud. This alone is an indicator that it is somehow clogged. The switch sensor/little black drain hose/canister was my problem.

Took off the back panel, removed the canister, and it was packed full. Blew on the little black hose to clear the system, and the washer clicked into action. Cleaned all the gunk out of the canister, hooked everything back up, and works like new!!! Will also say I cleaned behind the circular rubber gasket around the door (nasty!), and also cleaned out the trap attached to the pump, prior to cleaning the canister. Those two other cleanings did not fix the problem, but needed done anyway. Also disengaged all the hoses, and made sure they were clear. The hoses were fine.

An easy fix, thanks to this website, and saved a nice chunk of change. Bless you Jason! I found your post by search black slime or black gunk. Those adjectives sure help.

We were black slime all the way up to the ball joint which like you said wasn't mentioned anywhere else. Our culprit may have been a small plastic tooth pick which kept the ball out of position. So say my husband! Jason your instructions were well stated and laid out. But it was the first mutual project (I do the internetting and my husband does the black deslim-ing.) Actually I did a bit of that too. But he went to MIT so he should do more of the grunt work. One additional tip: set up a bucket under the filter trap housing (say, in the utility drawer underneath the washer) before you open it up, lest ye piddle water all over the floor.

You'll need to unseat the filter/pump assembly and then tip it forward to allow the water to clear the floor of the washer chassis. On the HE3t, it's secured to the chassis floor with one T20 screw. No need to disconnect the hoses or plugs; there's enough slack to keep everything connected. Remove the screw, slide the assembly forward out of its mount, then tip it down a little. (There's a bunch of wires in a plastic frame running laterally in front of the pump/trap assembly. But don't worry: you already unplugged the power cord, right?) Unscrew the trap cover a little (Don't remove it completely!) and let the water out.

Tighten it back up to stop the flow so you can empty your bucket. (Ours took three or four trips to the slop sink to drain all the way.) When it's empty, remove the cap and clean out the trap. (Our trophy: one very old, very nasty facecloth.) Slide the pump/trap assembly back into its mount, replace the T20 screw and the lower front panel, and you should be back in the laundry business. One last thing. Make sure you are prepared for the water that will flow out of the COIN TRAP. I would suggest gently pulling the rubber (red) tabs and lifting the trap up and placing a funnel to drain into a 1 GALLON bowl. I used a plastic cutting sheet to slide under the trap so that the water flowed into the bowl.

THERE IS A LOT OF WATER. After it drains there will be an assortment of lost items and goo that will empty into the bowl. I am frankly surprised the thing still worked. I had $1.79 in change and 7 LEGO pieces and about 40 airsoft pellets 5 color catcher sheets along with 1 EURO! I am still missing a lot of socks..

It was the second time in 8 months that the f02 code was displayed but this time I had the sud message to. First time I cleaned the trap that was really clogged (after 9 years). Second time, opened the trap to find almost nothing so did a little research on the web to find out it was possible the pump or other pipes could be clogged to. I removed the pump, the big black bellows, the evacuation pipe that goes to the drain and cleaned them all. I was surprise about the amount of sh. There was in those (we use he3 soap), put everything back and test ed it, code is back????

Finally, the only pipe I did not remove was the small one that goes to the sensor on top of the machine. This little hose goes from the sensor to a small reservoir behind the tub, it was completely clogged so the sensor never had a good reading about the water level in the time frame set by the control unit.

I cleaned this small reservoir (don't forget to re-attach the wires to it to prevent them to get in the belt) and my washer work perfectly now. Thank's to every one who posted there experiences, I probably save a few hundred dollard bills just to clean deposit. I've found pennies or dimes in the drain hose that passed by the coin catcher.

If its flat against the pump, it stops the water from pumping out. If the change is standing straight, the water drains fine past the coin. The coins will change position which some times allows it to drain and other times not. If thats not it, you may/probably/most likely need a new pump.

Once removed, If it, (the pump) moves freely, wobbles or is noise when in use it is worn out. @ $80 off ebay, $140 through sears parts direct. Good Luck and I hope this helps. Jim Farrell, Your Handy Dandy Home Man. I had the code too. My problem was a failed pump.

It was making a racket and running so hot it smelled like melting plastic. After shutting it down and dismantling the pump I stuck my finger inside to feel the impeller and it was shifting around in a way that didn't seem right. I think the shaft broke. The good news is the pump was easy to replace myself. I ordered the assembly from Sears Parts Direct for $180 with priority shipping.

Got it in 3 days. All parts needed for complete replacement were included.

Replacement worked great. Note that you will need to open two heavy duty hose clamps so be prepared ahead of time. If you have car radiator type hose clamp pliers then you should be set.

Otherwise you'll need something like small locking vice grips (what I used). You probably won't be able to do it with simple pliers because you won't be able to get enough hands inside to make the hose changes. I was really ticked that the pump only lasted about 4 years on this lightly-used high-end unit. However the ease of repair and part ordering somewhat redeemed Sears. $180 was a bit pricey for this plastic assembly I think but it sure beat $500+ and a 10 day wait to have Sears service fix it.

(I have a not so happy story with a Sears dishwasher.). Wow, my husband and I just got done with the process. It saved us $1500, I was ready to pay out for a new set, but this really does work. Our machine kept getting the error, we took the front piece off and unscrewed the trap and cleaned it out and it is running great. But the one thing that I will say, when the previous person said have many, many towels, be ready to have every one that you have, because we practically flooded out entire laundry room. It is a nasty cleaning but it will save you a bundle.

Thanks so much for this wonderful advice, it is so greatly appreciated. We followed the advice here a few years ago when we first had this problem (today is our second time with this code) and you saved us so much. Our culprit was those delight all in one cloths that Purex came out with.

You put the cloth in the washer, it had soap in it, then transferred it with the laundry to the dryer. Apparently they also fit nicely through the little drain in the tub.

We of course stopped using the sheets and notified Dial (the main co.) After that first time the machine has run perfectly until this week. This time my husband dragged the washer outside and tried to drain it there. Finally while cleaning it all out he found a handful of those sheets really wedged in one of the hoses. We haven't used them in years!

So I guess like others have said a thorough cleaning may be needed more often! As a preventative measure!! We've had our Kenmore Elite for almost 11 years and 2 months ago it started throwing the F02 error. We called Sears and then cancelled to try and fix it ourselves. We pulled the washer away from the wall and tipped it back to reduce the amount of water that would come out when we opened the trap.

We cleaned the trap and got a lot of gunk with toothpicks and some small screws in there. Put it back together and that wasn't it.

We cleaned the outside drain hose and found gunk that was so thick, it looked like rubber. That still wasn't it. Cleaned the inside hose.

Cleaned the rubber boot with the ball in it. Still no love. While the boot was out, I reached up in the hole and felt a thick wire and it seemed to be loose and rusty. It was not real bendable but I got it out. It was an underwire from a bra. Back together and again, not it.

We decided to buy the pump motor from Amazon. $72 with 2 day shipping. Got the water out of the trap and took out the one screw for the pump but left the hoses attached.

Removed the 3 screws holding the motor on and transferred the black seal washer to the new motor. Put it back together and it's finally working.

Fixed in time for Thanksgiving. The clothes were beginning to pile up.

Thanks for the help from everyone in the thread. This was incredibly helpful, thank you so much. Turns out we experienced almost all of the above. At first we thought it was the heavy gunk and debris at the 'coin filter', then the fairly clogged drain line. Finally after going back through the posts noting that the F02 code is a slow drain compared to the timer, we found a bra liner clogging the main drain hose (black flexible pipe under tub).

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Find out who represents you in Wyoming's legislature. Tell them that you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a bipartisan bill. Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Dear Washingtonians, Washington has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass 'Fair Repair' legislation. The Fair Repair Act guarantees our right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones and tractors.

It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably. But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want.

Find out who represents you in Washington's legislature. Tell them that you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a bipartisan bill.

Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Tennessee, This year, the people of Tennessee have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks.

The Fair Repair Act is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out.

Find out who represents you in the Tennessee General Assembly. Tell them you support the Fair Repair Act, and.

Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Tennessee.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair Illinois, This year, the people of Illinois have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. The is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out.

Find out who represents you in the Illinois General Assembly. Tell them you support the. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Illinois.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair Iowa, This year, the people of Iowa have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. Iowa's is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea.

When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the Iowa legislature. Tell them you support the. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Iowa.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair North Carolina, This year, the people of North Carolina have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. North Carolina's is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the North Carolina legislature. Tell them you support the.

Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in North Carolina. It's time to speak out for your right to repair Missouri, This year, the people of Missouri have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones.

You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. Missouri's is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts.

So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out.

Find out who represents you in the Missouri legislature. Tell them you support the. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Missouri. It's time to speak out for your right to repair New Hampshire, This year, the people of New Hampshire have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks.

New Hampshire's upcoming Right to Repair Act is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it.

And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out.

Find out who represents you in the New Hampshire legislature. Tell them you support the Right to Repair Act. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in New Hampshire. It's time to speak out for your right to repair New Jersey, This year, the people of New Jersey have a chance to guarantee their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital equipment, and even cell phones.

You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer for permission to fix it when it breaks. New Jersey's upcoming is simple.

It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life. But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea.

When your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and service. It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find out who represents you in the New Jersey legislature.

Tell them you support the. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible.

Stand up for the right to repair in New Jersey.