Hello all, New to the forum here. A few weeks ago my basement flooded and I ended up cutting the bottom 12 inches of drywall out around the perimeter of my entire basement.

The materials needed for taping drywall are premixed joint compound, a putty that acts as filler and adhesive; paper drywall tape, several drywall taping. Many professionals also use joint compound to fill deep cracks where the edges of drywall panels meet imperfectly, or where panels meet the corners of.

Now this is my first time doing drywall work like this and I ended up cutting the wall very poorly when removing the bad stuff. The cuts are very wavy so needless to say there are some gaps up to 1.5 inches wide. Is that too much gap to fill with mud? If I am filling a large void with the mud is there a chance of it cracking even it I use tape? Starting over and cutting straight lines is not an option at this point as I already have most of the drywall screwed to the wall. My plan is to slop the mud in the gaps and let it dry then mud and tape and then few more layers to feather it out. Also what kind of mud is the most crack resistant.

I saw someone suggested using concrete patch filler to fill large gaps like this. Anyone ever hear of that? Pokemon Heart Gold Rom Freeze Patch Desmume Wifi. When the mud cures, does it actually bond to the drywall as 1 or not. Welcome to the forums!

How you fill a gap will depend on how your wall is constructed. If you have just drywall for your wall surface you will want to add a ripper as best you can to fill the gap You might need to add some strips of wood for some backers to screw to, or just make a larger, better cutout to fill with drywall.

(draw a line with a straight edge before cutting. ) However, if your wall has something behind the finished wall like lath, then you could use a setting type compound such as Structolite, Durabond, or lightweight setting compound. The first two are good for filling gaps, but not good for the finish coat. The setting compound is better for a finish as it sands easier then the others. It is still not what I would recommend for finish taping. Either method you use you do not want to just fill the gap and go. You want to fill it even with the surrounding drywall.

Then lay down your paper tape and finish with two more coats of regular mud. This should give your patch the best chance of not cracking. Kasumi Doa Mugen Download.

You do not want to use concrete filler. It is much too rough and there are better products that are designed for your application as I have outlined out above. Yes, add a ripper. You can cut more out of the gaps to make them more consistent. Then fill them in as best as you can with a ripper- a skinny piece of drywall.

(if you have 1 1/2' gaps, hold a 2x4 on edge against the wall, draw a pencil line on each side and then when you take the board down, cut along that line with a knife. Then you can cut some 1 1/2' strips of drywall and nail/screw them on.) You really don't want to fill any bigger of a gap than you have to. IMO a 1/2' gap is too big to prefill. I mix up some 5 minute setting compound for prefilling gaps, but not for gaps larger than 1/2'.

Here's the problem I have. 2 of the walls are exterior walls. They are just the foundation with 2 inches of Styrofoam board insulation glued to it.

The studs in the walls are running horizontal. Not vertical.

I cut it and didn't cut it at the stud. I just went about a foot up and cut a rough line with my oscillating multi tool like an idiot.

Then got the pieces roughly screwed in place and now I question how this will work with filling with so much stuff. I installed another horizontal stud (drilled into foundation and tapconed a 2x2 to the wall sandwiched in between the Styrofoam above and below) and fastened the new drywall to the studs. Doing this created another problem. The sheets above my cut have no support on the bottom now.

I can't really install a stud for the upper pieces (due to being an exterior wall and the foam sheets, unless I just don't know the way) I didn't check where the next highest stud is located so I don't know how high up from the bottom of the cut the next screw holding it to the wall is. Could this bow out over time after they are mudded together? I'll get pictures tomorrow.

Thanks for your help! Sounds like you need to cut that gap a bit wider (minimum 1 1/2') like we were mentioning and slip in some short pieces of 2x2 or 2x4 that maybe you can flip up on end with your fingers so that they sit vertically behind the entire joint. If you can just insert something every 16' or so that both upper and lower pieces of drywall can screw to, you should be good.

If screwing the bottom piece of drywall to these short pieces isn't possible, you might have to glue the end to your new horizontal stud with construction adhesive. Posted By: Tolyn Ironhand Something like this might be of help to join the two drywall pieces together: Should slip between the foam and drywall.That's pretty much what I need I think. Any idea what one of those is called or where to get those? I really have barely any gap between drywall and foam since the studs are 2 inches and there is 2 inches of foam board so it's just about flush.

Also, to install the horizontal studs, I drilled about 3 to 4 inches into my foundation wall. The put tapcons in. That's shouldn't introduce a new water leak right? My concrete walls behind the foam insulation board had a coat of white paint or sealer on it FYI.